Somehow, when I was in fourth grade, I was taught in a home ec class how to make Russian dressing in an old mayonnaise jar. I couldn’t believe how delicious carrots and celery were when I dipped them in—beat the hell out of Pop-Tarts and pretzels as an after-school snack. When I went looking for contemporary versions on the internet, I was surprised to find that so many used ketchup. I used chili sauce back then, and so does my partner in Charcuterie,