Ossobuco alla Milanese

In the dialect of Milan, where this dish originates, ossobuco means “bone with a hole.” The name refers to the fat bone in the center of the hind veal shank, filled with marrow that turns a rich, velvety consistency with cooking. The marrow itself is eaten as a delicacy, dug out with a narrow, long-handed spoon called an esattore, meaning “tax collector.” A classic braise, ossobuco is made with veal shank cut into approximately 5-centimeter- (2-inch)-thick slices, which