Semolina-Fried Squid with Lemon Aioli

On the shady patio at the Trattoria da Cesare, the Roman restaurant in the quiet Monteverde Nuovo neighborhood, there are many pleasures to be enjoyed. Quite a lot of them are fried. When I ate there, our table was covered with fried treats: supple oxtail meatballs, gnocchi, and lovely little paper cones of anchovies, cuttlefish, and of course, calamari. Chef Leonardo Vignoli took me back to his spotless and calm kitchen, where his cooks worked quickly but deliberately. Tha