Radishes and Whipped Basil Butter

Au Passage is cramped and noisy and no longer undiscovered, but this natural wine bar still stands out: The servers are funky and helpful (not always a given in Paris!), the room is bubbling with conversation, and the food has a delicious clarity, even when you’re eating a classic. Last time I was there, I ordered radishes and butter—a dish I’ve seen and served one thousand times before—but the butter was silky and infused with herbs. We lapped it up, and I quickly got to thinking about how