Currant and Hazelnut Anchoïade with Crudités

Underneath the huge trees of the Boulevard du Temple, you might wonder what the enormous crowd is for: row after row of people milling around on the sidewalk, then more seated in a covered patio, and in the back, a bar, too. Young Parisiennes, in high-waisted jeans and eighties-style blazers, cluster around. Saucisse, the portly wiener dog, patrols the space, though he isn’t very social and will retreat behind the bar—in what was apparently once a betting parlor—when things get too crowded.