Beef Tartare, Oyster Aioli, Pickled Baby Onions, and Potato Chips

You know you’re living the life when you’re eating beef tartare and frites at Brasserie Lipp (a 140-year-old restaurant in the 6th arrondissement) and you spy Mick Jagger at the table next to you, like I did several years ago. Decadence in every direction! I love tartare so much, and it’s a lot easier to make than you might think. Just conspire with a good butcher for meat you trust. And before you cut it up, let it sit in the freezer for an hour, to make it easy to cut into tiny bits.