Margot Henderson serves terrific brandade, the classic salt cod–potato mash that is as comforting as a cozy blanket by the fire. I’m inspired by her version, but I like to make my own salted cod. I prefer the texture to the boxed salt cod, and I can also control the sourcing of the fish this way, too. With commercial salt cod, you soak it for a couple of days, changing the water occasionally to rehydrate th
