Method

Pour 4 bottles whole milk into a wide earthenware basin (krinka) and set in the oven in front of the coals to simmer slowly. When a colored skin forms on top, push it to the bottom with a spoon, and repeat the process several times, pushing down the skins as they form. Remove the pot from the oven, cool slightly, add ½ or 1 glass cream, and set in a warm place for the cream to sour. Cool and serve with sugar.

*The Greek connection here is unclear, but the process of clotting cream and letting it form skins is a very old one. In England, a mid seventeenth century recipe called for sprinkling sugar, rosewater, and orange flower water between the layers of clotted cream; this dish was called “cabbage cream” because the skins were heaped in a dish like a head of cabbage. (See Brears, The Gentlewoman’s Kitchen, 89, and Wilson, Food and Drink in Britain, 169.)

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