Method

Salt 20 large field mushrooms, set aside for 24 hours, and then mash them with a spoon. Strain, bring to a boil, skim, and pour into bottles. Twenty field mushrooms should yield 1½–2 bottles of soy.

*Although mushroom soy sauce had an especially important role in Russian cuisine because of the large number of fast days, mushroom soy, or ketchup as it was called, was also commonly used in English cookery in the eighteenth century. The English ketchups, which derived from the East, were more highly spiced than Molokhovets’ version cited above, and allowed an easy transition to tomato ketchup when that New World fruit became more widely available.

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