This is one of those simple salads that you can serve on a crudité plate with other salads, but it’s so satisfying in itself that in France you’ll often see it offered as a first course in neighborhood restaurants. The French have delicious
crème fraîche, which they use generously, but if the fat makes you nervous, use yogurt instead. My own taste veers to crème fraîche in the winter and yogurt in the summer. If you do want to use