Chicken Salad

Most of us are familiar with chicken salad in one of two guises: the original deli version, made much like American potato salad—with mayonnaise and celery—and the new yuppie version, the chicken Caesar. I’m not crazy about either version, because the original always tastes like bottled mayonnaise and the new version is so often made with the outer tough leaves of the romaine, never contains enough anchovies, and in restaurants at least is too expensive. I talk about a few potential variati