When I first went to France on my quest to learn cooking, I went to see Richard Olney, who at the time no longer taught his famous Avignon cooking classes. I asked him which would be the best restaurants in France in which to work for an apprenticeship. He named only two: Vivarois in Paris and Chez la Mère Blanc (now Georges Blanc) in Vonnas, a tiny village in the mountains east of Burgundy.
Every fanc