Goat Cheese Soufflés

For four years I owned a small French restaurant in Manhattan where I was more concerned with duplicating experiences I had had in restaurants in France than I was in making money. Hence the restaurants eventual demise—too many truffles, too many laborious dishes, and too much Champagne broken out if business was slow or a member of the kitchen staff was feeling a little low. The least practical dish, but a very popular one, was an individual goat cheese soufflé served as a first course. No