I was first alerted to these soufflés in Richard Olney’s masterpiece, Simple French Food, and I encountered them again under a different name, soufflés d’Aragon, when teaching at Peter Kump’s Cooking School in New York, I’ve been hard put to discover the origin of either name, finding only one mention of soufflés à la Suissesse in Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire. Escoffier’s version is the simplest (for once) a