Although seventeenth- and eighteenth-century recipes often combined oysters with poultry, the French have rarely combined oysters with red meats. The most popular oyster-meat combination is oysters served with hot sausages, a combination popular in the Bordelais. Here I’ve come up with this sauce, made with red wine, mushrooms, and fresh oysters, that makes a marvelous briny counterpoint to the rich, full flavor of red meat.
You can approach the sauce in one of two ways. You can sau