Duck Rillettes

Whenever I get off the plane in France after a long absence, certain immediate cravings set in. A choucroute garnie must be had within the first few days, as must a plate of oysters. But first and foremost—usually by the first lunch—there have got to be rillettes, preferably on the terrace of a café, served with crusty pain Poilane and a glass of good rouge. Here, you must be careful because, seeing an American, the waiter may ask if you want your rillettes en