Meat-Filled Ravioli

While the Provençal habit of throwing together ravioli with various leftovers has always sounded to me like a clever way of disguising bits of meat and vegetables, the potential for brilliance didn’t occur to me until I read the kolduny recipe in Richard Olney’s Simple French Food. Apparently, koldunys, which are ravioli by a different name, originated some-where in Eastern Europe, but the preparation and serving of koldunys involve two essential concepts first described in the early twenti