Quince Paste

The Spanish have a marvelous custom of serving quince paste and pastes made from other fruits with Manchego and other firm cheeses. Now, even when I serve a platter of French cheeses, I include a slice or two of quince paste, which admittedly I usually buy. But after poking around in my library, I’ve discovered that the French were once quite fond of quince paste. La Varenne, in Le Confiturier François, gives recipes for two versions, both of which he calls cotignac. According to Barbara Wh