Cherries in Kirsch

This delightful little concoction is both a dish and a drink. I first tasted it at the Lupin-Agile, an old-fashioned Montmartre cabaret where I went, when I could afford it, to listen to comedians and story tellers. Everyone sat on benches at long tables eating and sipping cerises à l’eau-de-vie, and even a few blocks from the tourist-packed “Butte” there were few foreigners, since everything was in French. I pretended, no doubt unsuccessfully, to be French.

Along with the various s