Partridge with Swiss chard, girolles, quince & chestnuts

My first job as a Commis Chef in London was at The Grill Room at The Café Royal, an ornate dining room and unquestionably one of the most beautiful Michelin-starred restaurants at that time. On several occasions, I accompanied the Austrian Chef, Herbert Berger, on a partridge shoot in Yorkshire, a four-day trip on which we cooked each day for the guns.

On the last night we always cooked some of the partridge they had shot. To this day partridge holds a special place in my heart as o