Broad-bean Soup with Bacon

At the start of the short broad-bean season, the small, young beans are tender enough to eat whole. Later, as the pods grow, the beans inside develop a thick sheath that has an almost plastic texture when cooked. Inside that dull grey-green cover is a bright green bean with a sweet, delicate flavour.

Since I made this discovery, I always take the trouble to shell broad beans after cooking. For this soup it isn’t essential, but if you do, the flavour and colour of the soup is greatly