Le Salmis de Bécasse

The old marshlands of Les Landes are where you would rightly expect to find bécasse (woodcock). As in Britain, the French usually roast these undrawn; when they are cooked, they are gutted and the giblets mashed and spread on to large crofitons. The roasted birds are then served on top. The roasting is best done, of course, before an open wood fire with the aid of the flambadou. Woodcock should not be hung for more than three days, especially if they are to be cooked still wit