If using the must, place in an
If using the grapes, strip them from the stems, rinse them quickly, and drain. Place the grapes, in batches, in a stainless steel colander set over a large bowl and crush them coarsely, squeezing with your hands and allowing the juice to drain into the bowl. Reserve the squeezed grape skins. After crushing all the grapes, run the reserved skins through a food mill fitted with the finest blade, letting their juice drain into the bowl with the other juice. Pour all the juice into an
Bring the must or grape juice to a boil over medium heat and lower to a simmer. The must will foam a great deal while it is simmering. Be careful that it does not boil over. Cook the must for about 1 hour, stirring often, until it is thick and syrupy and reduced to about
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