Crostata di Fragole

In late spring, all the elegant pastry shops and prepared-food stores on the Via Montenapoleone in Milan feature magnificent tarts filled with a combination of cultivated and wild strawberries. The tarts are assembled with a row of whole or halved large strawberries around the edge and a pile of tiny wild strawberries in the center.

The wild strawberries, fragoline in Italian, are all but unobtainable in the United States. To try to match their intensity of flavor for this re