Ravioli for Meat Days

The name ravioli probably comes from rabiole meaning “leftovers” in Ligurian dialect. The filling can be made of almost any meat or vegetable and was originally fried like a fritter; Martino seems to be the first cook to enclose it in pasta to make the ravioli we know, and he does not bother to give a recipe for the dough, which would have been a simple flour and water paste. He also uses a cheese called cacio still made in parts of Italy today.

To make ten servings: t