Albert Lim Shue, a second-generation Hakka-Jamaican who now lives in Toronto, loves to cook. This businessman injects Jamaican accents—handfuls of spice, fresh citrus leaves plucked from trees in his garden, and goat—into a typical Hakka soy-braised stew. He serves the aromatic, inky stew with a tart preserved-lime sauce that magically brightens the flavor. Albert calls his stew “Smile Hakka Jamaica,” or Tai Sui Fee. If you can’t
