Ton Kiang’s steamed salt-baked chicken is actually a shortcut version, in which the bird is poached in brine. It is easy to duplicate at home. This technique disguises even slightly overcooked chicken. The secret is to keep the water at a bare simmer. When the chicken is done, a brief dip in an ice-water bath cools it rapidly so it doesn’t overcook and contracts the skin so it is smooth and firm. With chicken so moist and smooth, who cares if it isn’t wholly traditional. Ea
