Eggplant Caviar

Eggplant caviar is a popular Russian-Jewish appetizer, not to mention one of the specialties of my late friend Bob Ginn, who was a fabulous cook and fabulous human being. (You can read more about Bob’s culinary exploits in the kugel chapter.) This “caviar” won’t fool anyone into thinking he’s eating beluga, but it does have the soft, crunchy-gooey texture one associates with fish roe and a robust flavor that would do any vorspeis (Russian-Jewish hors d’oeuvre) spread proud. My low-fat versi