Il Bollito Misto

One of the splendours of Lombard and Piedmont cooking — boiled meats served with an astonishing variety of piquant accompaniments. To get the idea of it one must go to a Milanese restaurant frequented by thickset energetic business men in the neighbourhood of La Scala. (The study of the clientele of any eating place is often a better indication of what will issue from the kitchen than a perusal of the menu.)

But failing this, before embarking on its preparation, one should acquire s