I once lived in Oregon next to eight acres of wild grapes. In the summer and autumn we gorged ourselves on grape sweets and puddings and put up jam, preserves and syrups for the winter. One year I decided to try my luck at wine-making with brilliant results never-to-be-repeated (beginner’s luck). The vines were a source of year-long amazement and beauty.
In early spring, before the budding of the fruit, the vines were full of young and tender green leaves, perfect for cooking with o