KATHY: This dish was born of necessity, when House of Nanking had to pivot to takeout-only during the pandemic. We knew we needed menu items that sat well in a box, so I decided to create $5-a-pop cold dishes, just like the little cold appetizers my Shanghainese grandmother and aunts would lay out on the table to accompany our meals at home. We featured five different cold dishes, and they were a hit—some orders would come in with every single cold app on the ticket. While
