PETER: Whenever I make this dish at home, it makes me think about my childhood years in Shanghai. On those sweltering summer days, my younger brother and I would spend hours sprawled out on the concrete floors in the hallway of our home, which felt like the coolest place in the building. Our mom would summon us to the dining room for lunch, where she treated us to an array of cold dishes she’d prepared. One of the most refreshing things she would make was mă lán tóu, marina
