KATHY: “Shanghai egg rolls are the best in the world,” my a niáng would always say. “Not a single egg roll out there is comparable”—and I would have to agree with her. That’s because we take our egg rolls very seriously, from appropriate wrapper to filling ratio to the expensive, high-quality ingredients. Whereas most dim sum–style egg rolls use canned bamboo shoots, we opt for fresh winter bamboo shoots, which have a slightly sweet crunch. It’s a rather pricey ingredient t