KATHY: Hanging on Nanking’s wall is a clipping from a column by the Pulitzer Prize–winning San Francisco journalist Herb Caen. It reads, “At the House of Nanking, writer Edwin Heaven was making a pitch to Francis Ford Coppola about his script, ‘The Lobster & the Mobster.’ Francis, between bites of fiery-hot shrimp cakes and gulps of Chinese beer: ‘Well, mobsters, they are always in season, but try to find a good lobster
