PETER: Scallion oil–tossed noodles in a Shanghainese family is probably the equivalent of spaghetti aglio e olio for a Neapolitan family. Both are simple, affordable yet satisfying noodle dishes that use an infused oil—scallion in Shanghai, garlic in Naples. It’s one of those dishes that we never ordered at a restaurant, because it’s such a home-cooking staple. The running joke is that every Shanghainese person claims that they make the best . . . and no restaurant can make
