PETER: One of my favorite pastimes with my younger brother, Jason (Xiăo Dì), was to wrap small Shanghai wontons for lunch. It would be hot as hell, and we would sit on wooden stools in the kitchen wearing sleeveless undershirts and track shorts, wrapping packets of pork, lard, and bok choy. Our mouths would water as we worked, eager to eat them as fast as possible. We would often inhale forty wontons each! To give you an idea of how many wontons this is, a
