PETER: When I first opened House of Nanking, many of our most popular dishes were exclusively vegetarian. You might read this and think, Wow, the chef must really love vegetables. The truth is, I don’t like most vegetables. There are only a handful I enjoy, and most are things I grew up with in Shanghai that you can’t find in the States. Gān biān sì jì dòu is an exception: I quite enjoy dry-fried green beans when done well. But there are two rules if you want to cook
