PETER: In my memory, all the vegetables in Shanghai were exceptional—maybe because they were organic and only available seasonally. The pea shoots in Shanghai are particularly good. I always wanted to add pea shoots to the menu at Nanking, but the ones I found in the US were so tough compared to what I was used to in China. Lily would try to find tender ones at the market, but I would always tell her “No way, don’t buy it . . . One bite of that and you will
