Steamed Chicken Wings in Black Bean–Garlic Sauce

KATHY: If you are ever in a Chinese household with immigrant parents, grandparents, or other relatives, it is not unusual to see the adults hovering over a child, using kitchen scissors to remove meat from the bone and transferring the meat straight into the kid’s rice bowl. This is how I grew up: My grandparents and aunts would always give me the prized meat pieces, saving me from having to perform mouth gymnastics on a piece of bony, fatty, or cartilaginous meat.