PETER: Gluten puff is one of my favorite things to eat. The puff is made of water and wheat gluten that’s fried into balls that are both crunchy and airy—the best of both worlds. You can buy gluten puffs at most Chinese markets, where they are sold in sealed bags and might be labeled “Fried Round Gluten.” When they are cooked in sauces, they soften into a slightly chewy and smooth bite that absorbs a lot of flavor, like a sponge. A classic Shanghainese way to enjoy this is
