KATHY: When I was growing up in Chinatown in the 1980s and ’90s, there was only one way to celebrate birthdays, weddings, baby showers, and other milestones, and that was a big, elaborate banquet. If you’ve sat through more than one Chinese restaurant banquet, you’ll know they are all the same. Every single restaurant served the same copycat menu. Honestly, I didn’t mind it—you know what you get, no surprises. My memories of most of these dishes has faded, but there is one
