PETER: One of my favorite things to eat in the world is from Shanghai, and I still can’t get it in the US: Shanghai hairy crab, dà zhá xiè. It’s a mediumsized freshwater crab that has fur on its claws, and it’s considered a delicacy in Shanghai. The ones from Yangcheng Lake are the most prized. The crab meat is incredibly sweet and melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the roe, which is often used to elevate dishes such as noodles, tofu, and soup dumplings, has a rich flavor that
