Béarnaise

I grew up believing erroneously that sauce béarnaise was just a hollandaise with chopped tarragon in it. Up to a point it is. And if you want to make a quick, almost-béarnaise, use my mother’s method, which is to say follow the recipe for hollandaise above, adding 1 teaspoon dried tarragon to the egg yolks and then stirring in some freshly chopped tarragon at the end. Use a little lemon only, and lots of pepper. Be careful: too much tarragon can evoke that manure-underfoot, farmhouse scent,