Basic French Dressing

• 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
• scant ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)

If you’re using the mustard (and I sometimes use a tarragon mustard – feltily green and lightly, rather than effusively, fragrant – and sometimes none at all), mix it in a bowl with the vinegar, the salt and pepper and a drop or two of cold water, then whisk or fork in the oil (I often use Ligurian, which is sweet and mild). Or you can put all the ingredients for the dressing in an old jam jar,