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Easy
Published 1998
The name I give it evokes, and is meant to, the old-fashioned flavours of those hot-water-crust pies: picnic food to be eaten on scratchy rugs; this is the winter, indoors variety. But it’s very garlicky, too, so it’s not a complete transposition of that mild, sausagey taste. If you boil the garlic, it not only makes it easier to peel, but it reduces any latent acridness, producing, later, warmth rather than smoky heat. The ham in question is pancetta (or chopped bacon if you prefer) but if
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