Pasta with Anchovy Sauce

My mother always soaked anchovies in milk, just as she did kidneys and chicken livers, therefore so do I. The inclusion of Marsala is a non-Venetian innovation, but its dry, deep mellowness works well with the fierce saltiness of the anchovies.

What makes this ideal for me for eating alone is that I don’t need to worry about any other person’s tiresomeness about anchovies. An average-sized tin of anchovies should give you, when drained, 25–30