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Published 1998
The first time I made a banana custard, it looked so pallid. The point is, of course, that everyone is used to eating it made with Bird’s custard, so that one can’t help but expect to see that bouncy canary-yellow. The next time I added saffron to the custard (as long as you don’t add too much the note it strikes is intriguing rather than intrusive), which turns it from palest primrose to a yellow that would do honour to the most dazzling tartrazine. It is more than just a culinary joke, th