Taramasalata

I wouldn’t eat taramasalata with the lamb-heavy version of hummus here, but it’s a bit like giving a present to one child: you just can’t give the one recipe and leave out the other. So I add the taramasalata here. But maybe not just for that reason: in order to complete, too, the picture I have of my mother when I was a child stuffing bread, ritually uncased cod’s roe, oil, lemon, briskly into her blender – and a really vile one at that, with an olive green plastic top and a goblet made of