Caesar Salad

In my years as a restaurant critic I railed against the messed-about Caesar salad. So many chefs want to do their bit – to shave the cheese rather than grate it, so you lose that fabulous leaf-thickening coating, to throw in whole fresh anchovies, to substitute designer lettuce – and every addition is a loss. Perfection cannot be improved upon. And so what am I doing here, replacing the classic garlic croûtons with small cubes of garlicky roast potatoes? Well, I do this because this is how