Rhubarb and Muscat Jelly

This is spectacular: it’s beautiful when the poached rhubarb, fresh out of the oven, sits in its orange-flecked juices; and just so pretty, when it’s set and shining and the sweetest dusky rose pink. But because of that colour, don’t set it in a ring mould: it makes it look slightly gynaecological. I use an old-fashioned, bulbously curving castle mould. You can get them now made in plastic which is easier to demould than the old copper ones.

When Marks & Spencer sells its beauti